What can I say, there are tropical islands and then there is Capri (pronounced ka-PREE). Not so much a gypset enclave, but one that should be on your bucket list. My trip to Europe a few weeks ago took me to this legendary island. I had decided to take (on my own :0 ) my two young nephews on a summer break European tour to discover the cities they’ve read about as they’ve grown. That said, European cities in July and August are not typically a draw for me with the heat and the crowds, so the opportunity to be on an island where we could take a break and I felt safe having the boys run around, was just what I needed in between our London and Rome experiences.
Capri is a stunning island in the Tyrhhenian Sea, resting on the south side of the Gulf of Naples– not too far from the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento. There are two main towns on Capri: Capri and Anacapri. Capri is located close to Marina Grande (the port) and encompasses the famous Piazzetta (a piazza or square), whereas Anacapri is located higher up on the side of Mount Solaro.
There are so many beautiful places to see in Capri. Don’t miss the Grotta Azzurra (Blue Grotto). The Blue Grotto is a cave that is accessible via boat– the entrance is only 1 meter from the surface of the ocean, so visitors must lie down to enter the cave! Once you arrive inside, the blue color of the water is striking. Objects under water appear to have a silver shimmer due to the air bubbles and the way the light refracts from the surrounding water. Visit the Blue Grotto between 12 and 2 pm for the best colors! Be very careful to keep your head down when entering and exiting the grotto. The surf comes up high leaving just enough for the boat to slide through.
Me and my men
Another must-see is the Piazzetta Umberto I (named for a former King of Italy). The cafés in the Piazzetta are perfect for people watching, and you will see tourists, fashionistas, celebrities, and artists enjoying a coffee or cocktail. In fact, Capri has long been a destination for well known artists including John Singer Sargent and Frank Hyde. Famous literati who found inspiration in Capri include Thomas Mann, Axel Munthe, Norman Douglas, Compton Mackenzie, Curzio Malaparte, and Pablo Neruda.
Evening festivities in the Piazetta
During the 1950s-1960s, La Dolce Vita (“the sweet life”) reigned in Italy. The phrase became popular when Federico Fellini debuted his movie of the same name in 1960. The phrase embodies the Italian impetus to enjoy life and all that it has to offer by relaxing and stopping a while to take in the world and its beauty that surrounds you. During the 1950s and 1960s Capri, like other areas in Italy, was a playground for the rich and famous (and everyone else!), and it was characterized by luxury and excess. While the phrase is relatively confined to the decades of the 50s and 60s, many Italians still choose to live the lifestyle!
When one thinks of Capri they no doubt think of the Faraglioni– the three impressive rock formations that rise up from the sea. Being on a boat is of course the best way to see them. Your hotel can easily arrange this for you at a reasonable price.
In front of the Faraglioni
When you just want to take it easy and soak up the sun, enjoy the day at La Fontelina Beach Club. Regarded as the most beautiful beach club in Italy (since 1949), globetrotter’s have been coming to this piece of paradise to revive and revel in the warm Mediterranean Sea and delicious food at the Fontelina restaurant.
La Fontelina Beach Club
A photo-op on the path to La Fontelina
La Fontelina…mi manchi (I miss you)! 🙂
When traveling to Capri, you must check out the Grand Hotel Quisisana (the name means “here one heals”). This five-star resort opened its doors in 1845, and it has hosted the island’s most famous visitors. The hotel is a stone’s throw from the Piazzetta, and it’s located right in the heart of downtown Capri–close to designer boutiques and cafés. The Quisisana offers luxurious accommodations including marble floors, chandeliers, stunning beach views, and exquisite Mediterranean meals.
The Quisisana offers both rooms and suites and has five dining options for its guests including the Quisi Restaurant, Colombaia, Rendez Vous, and Quisi Sushi. There is also a gorgeous spa (Quisi Beauty). For information on rates and reservations, click HERE.
If you aren’t lucky enough to stay at Quisisana, grab a table out front, have an apéritif and enjoy the view. Everyone who wants to be seen strolls by the Quisisana.
Hotel Quisisana
Casa Morgano and the La Scalinatella (“Best Hotel in the World” by Condè Nast Traveler) are two other five-star boutique hotels, owned by the Morgano family. Casa Morgano is the newest addition to their collection of properties on Capri. Both are located on Via Tragara, and the exquisite rooms and suites are decorated in bright Mediterranean colors and offer terraces with sweeping views of the Mediterranean. Keep in mind when thinking to stay at either of these hotels during high season that they aren’t as big as Quisisana, so make sure you book your stay in advance!
Hotel Scalinatella
One of the other local places I love to visit on Capri is Buonocore Gelateria. This little shop serves the most delicious gelato in home-made cones, in addition to sandwiches. Located on the main road in downtown Capri, be prepared for a line at the gelato window. Buonocore is so popular that, at times, there will be up to 60 people waiting to sample its gelato!
Waiting patiently for their gelato 🙂
Ristorante Al Faraglioni is one of my favorite places to dine in Capri. Due to its gastronomic prowess, it’s not unusual to see celebrities and other famous faces dining at Faraglioni. The restaurant is located on Via Camarelle, right in the heart of the shops and restaurants that line the street. When you visit Faraglioni you can dine underneath a paglierelle (straw canopy) while you people watch! The restaurant’s interior is decorated with beautiful scenes from the Mediterranean, many painted by Sergio Rubino. The food is traditional Mediterranean, and the wine list features over 600 different wines!
Quite simply, I love the island of Capri. It is the ultimate escape when you want to have a taste of that “la dolce vita.” I have a sneaking suspicion I’ll be back. 😉
